I'm currently sitting in the airport in Santiago, Chile, awaiting my evening flight to the U.S. I arrived from Argentina this morning. Ah... airports. How many things can I do in this airport? Particularly since I can't check in for another 4-5 hours and am relegated to the lobby. At least it's a lovely day in Chile and I can see the mountains all around. Very beautiful. Helped along by sampling more Chilean wine.
I'll drop a note about Buenos Aires in the very near future. Not having internet at home this week, I was not able to write while I was there, but the quick answer to your question is: yes, it's a wonderful city and I did love the tango, and yes, I survived the wacky Italian-Spanish-uniquely-Argentine accent and language structure (although I never once used "vos" myself). I danced enough tango to know that I need to dance more and to remember that I love dancing.
My teacher there was strongly encouraging me to move to B.A. and to teach English for a while while I continue to study Spanish. So another option has been added to the list. Nothing has emerged as a clear winner, but that's what my next few weeks are for I guess.
One other thing: I love being greeted by a kiss on the cheek. That everyone does it to everyone is just lovely.
9.11.2005
9.02.2005
Ciao, mi Escuela!
Today was my last day here at the school in Chile. I've finished my classes, but find I'm reluctant to actually leave the school. I suppose I have to go home to pack... I tried to change my return ticket yesterday but couldn't. Oh well. This has been great. Tonight out to the bars (por supuesto) and tomorrow off to explore some wineries. Then, finally, pack everything up and off to Argentina!
9.01.2005
De Santiago
Dia por dia, mi español es mejor...
I realize I've never given you all a good picture of this place, so a little about Santiago:
Santiago is a huge urban zone. The people here are fantastic and very helpful everywhere I go. They take pride in being simpatico and consider it a national trait. The city is encircled by mountains which (in the past) made for a beautiful view from within most parts of the city. Unfortunately, now the city is among the top 5 most polluted cities in the world and it's rare to get a clear view of the snow-covered peaks -- unless it's the day after a rain. They don't generally get much rain, but this year is unusually wet so I've had many clearer days to see the range which cradles the city and I can tell you it's beautiful.
I knew Santiago was large, but was suprised to learn that there are 5.6 million people living here. I think people in the U.S. have a picture of Chile that is antiquated and folklore-ish. Or equate it with third-world countries and expect to pay very little. I didn't know what to expect and didn't read much of anything before I arrived. But contrary to the picture that many of us have of llama farmers living in the mountains (or whatever), I'm uploading this blog using the DSL line here at my house. Prices for goods are fairly comparable to the states (only a little lower) while prices for services are generally much lower. This translates into a high cost of living because salaries are not keeping pace with the prices of books, clothing, etc. On the plus side, this is all due to having a pretty stable economy and government (at least for a while).
Chile has had some ferocious earthquakes in the past. In California, earthquakes are measured in seconds. Here they last for minutes (as many as 4!) and are very intense. There are, consequently, few very tall buildings in Santiago and the city is sprawling. At least here (unlike LA), they have a fantastic public transportation system which goes all over the city. However, in the unwelcome-adventure category, you may have to board a moving bus if the driver doesn't feel like making a full stop. The drivers are paid by the fare so they try to get around as quickly as possible, picking up people who flag them down and not fully acknowledging certain inconveniences such as bus stops and crosswalks. The innumberable old buses also contribute mightily to the smog.
Vising Santiago 5 years from now could be radically different than today.The city/regional government is committed to addressing the polution issue, beginning with cleaning up the water of the river which runs through Santiago and replacing all the buses. After that, they are going to develop the area to create a more beautiful, picturesque and enticing (read: expensive) area of restaurants and parks bordering the river. It does sound very pretty and I'm sure it will be great. I haven't heard the other plans for the smog, but that can't be far behind. The mountains should be seen from the balcony of Neruda's house in the center of the city, just as they could be when his little boat-shaped lovenest, La Chascona, was built.
The history of Chile is rich in words, music and wine. In future blogs I'll add a little more about this, but know that a visit to Chile is greatly enriched by learning some about the history (political and cultural). Many things make more sense and mean more if you take a little time for this -- por supuesto.
I am here in the winter, which is rarely the right time to visit any city. I'm told that I need to come back in the spring and I agree that I must. I am eager to hike the mountains and explore the many glaciers and volcanoes here. Chile very nearly runs the entire span of the southern hemisphere and it seems a shame to only visit 1 region of the 12. They also have a fabulous coastline which is far finer in the sun than in the rain.
...besides, my trip was ill planned and I'm missing the country's largest fiesta: September 18. If you want to party for a week solid or so, come to Chile then for a massive outporing of national pride and an endless pouring of chicha and pisco. Then ski your way into the beginning of spring. If I could change my ticket, that's what I'd do...
[Photo by Robert Shaw. Cool guy. Good photographer.]
I realize I've never given you all a good picture of this place, so a little about Santiago:
Santiago is a huge urban zone. The people here are fantastic and very helpful everywhere I go. They take pride in being simpatico and consider it a national trait. The city is encircled by mountains which (in the past) made for a beautiful view from within most parts of the city. Unfortunately, now the city is among the top 5 most polluted cities in the world and it's rare to get a clear view of the snow-covered peaks -- unless it's the day after a rain. They don't generally get much rain, but this year is unusually wet so I've had many clearer days to see the range which cradles the city and I can tell you it's beautiful.
I knew Santiago was large, but was suprised to learn that there are 5.6 million people living here. I think people in the U.S. have a picture of Chile that is antiquated and folklore-ish. Or equate it with third-world countries and expect to pay very little. I didn't know what to expect and didn't read much of anything before I arrived. But contrary to the picture that many of us have of llama farmers living in the mountains (or whatever), I'm uploading this blog using the DSL line here at my house. Prices for goods are fairly comparable to the states (only a little lower) while prices for services are generally much lower. This translates into a high cost of living because salaries are not keeping pace with the prices of books, clothing, etc. On the plus side, this is all due to having a pretty stable economy and government (at least for a while).
Chile has had some ferocious earthquakes in the past. In California, earthquakes are measured in seconds. Here they last for minutes (as many as 4!) and are very intense. There are, consequently, few very tall buildings in Santiago and the city is sprawling. At least here (unlike LA), they have a fantastic public transportation system which goes all over the city. However, in the unwelcome-adventure category, you may have to board a moving bus if the driver doesn't feel like making a full stop. The drivers are paid by the fare so they try to get around as quickly as possible, picking up people who flag them down and not fully acknowledging certain inconveniences such as bus stops and crosswalks. The innumberable old buses also contribute mightily to the smog.
Vising Santiago 5 years from now could be radically different than today.The city/regional government is committed to addressing the polution issue, beginning with cleaning up the water of the river which runs through Santiago and replacing all the buses. After that, they are going to develop the area to create a more beautiful, picturesque and enticing (read: expensive) area of restaurants and parks bordering the river. It does sound very pretty and I'm sure it will be great. I haven't heard the other plans for the smog, but that can't be far behind. The mountains should be seen from the balcony of Neruda's house in the center of the city, just as they could be when his little boat-shaped lovenest, La Chascona, was built.
The history of Chile is rich in words, music and wine. In future blogs I'll add a little more about this, but know that a visit to Chile is greatly enriched by learning some about the history (political and cultural). Many things make more sense and mean more if you take a little time for this -- por supuesto.
I am here in the winter, which is rarely the right time to visit any city. I'm told that I need to come back in the spring and I agree that I must. I am eager to hike the mountains and explore the many glaciers and volcanoes here. Chile very nearly runs the entire span of the southern hemisphere and it seems a shame to only visit 1 region of the 12. They also have a fabulous coastline which is far finer in the sun than in the rain.
...besides, my trip was ill planned and I'm missing the country's largest fiesta: September 18. If you want to party for a week solid or so, come to Chile then for a massive outporing of national pride and an endless pouring of chicha and pisco. Then ski your way into the beginning of spring. If I could change my ticket, that's what I'd do...
[Photo by Robert Shaw. Cool guy. Good photographer.]
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